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Bula!

Fiji is both the transit and cultural hub of the South Pacific. Probably the main reason we came here is that it is the cheapest place to fly to in the area (relatively of course). The country lies just about in the middle of the thousands of islands that cover this vast region. There are over 300 named islands that are part of the nation of Fiji. Basically, a few big islands surrounded by many small ones. Viti Levu is the main and largest island where the international airport is located (Nadi, pronounced Nandi) and the capital Suva. Fijian culture is an interesting combination of native Melanesian and Polynesian peoples, and the descendants of indentured servants who came from India during the 19^th and early 20^th centuries. There is definitely a bit of racial tension between these two main groups, mainly related to property laws that restrict land ownership by native Indians (and anyone else). Probably one reason there are frequent coups here, the latest in 2006.

We were a bit worried that Fiji might be too similar to Hawaii, i.e. volcanic islands, coral reefs, coconut palms and general tropical paradise. You know, the usual boring stuff Shortly after we landed we figured out that our worries were unfounded. About the only similarities are floral print shirts and a ubiquitous greeting. Just substitute Aloha with an even more vigorous Bula! The first thing we noticed was that the people here are crazy nice. Within 30 minutes of landing we were invited to stay at someone’s house and have received several similar offers since. We are definitely in a foreign country now.

Our first stop was with a local Indian named Eddie who we found through couchsurfing. Eddie lives inland, about a 10 minute cab ride from the Airport and Nadi town. Eddie’s place is an odd combination of unofficial hostel, home stay, bachelor pad, and local party spot. We stayed for 3 nights. During our time there, we were cooked fabulous meals, partied, hung out, and then hung-over with locals and fellow travelers. Should probably mention here that Fijians have a peculiar method of drinking beer, probably influenced by the kava tradition. Drinking is done communally. One small glass is filled and passed around in a circle, each person finishing the glass in one gulp. Usually one person does the pouring. It may sound inefficient but this is surprisingly effective, especially when some local 120 proof rum is thrown into the mix. Eddie’s place is also home to a cat, 4 dogs, 2 goats, some chickens and roosters, and a horse who apparently comes and goes as he pleases (he never showed during our stay). We were given frequent rides into town by Eddie’s neighbor Reggie (bastardized English version of his Indian name), who informed us a bit on local politics and culture.

While getting the downtown tour of Nadi from Reggie, we passed by a tourist booth where they give away free trips for going to a timeshare presentation (ah, another thing in common with Hawaii). Basically, sit through a 90 minute presentation on the great virtues and economic sense of buying magical points for $40,000 loaned at a 14% interest rate (hey but no prepayment penalty!) plus $1000 in yearly maintenance fees for the right to stay at one of Wyndham’s resorts for a couple weeks a year until you drop dead or talk some schmuck into buying it from you. Ummm………neh. We will take the free cruise though. And we did.

The next day we took the local bus to Denarau Island (where the fancy resorts are) and took our free cruise. We boarded a big double-masted sailboat, along with about 40 other tourists of higher income tax brackets than ourselves, and set out for Tivua or Mystery Island about an hour and a half from shore. En route, we were treated to a tourist friendly kava ceremony (much tamer than the scene at Eddies) and incessant singing by the crew. The island is a tiny coral sand outcropping that took no more than 5 minutes to circumnavigate on foot. After a short nap (still feeling the effects of the previous night at Eddie’s) we helped ourselves to the free buffet lunch and open bar, then did some kayaking and snorkeling. All in all it was a decent trip but we feel sorry for the people who actually paid $100 for it.

Moving on from Nadi, we set out for the Coral Coast on the southern shore of Viti Levu. Took the local bus to the Beach House resort. This place is set up specifically for backpackers. Accommodations range from private bungalows to camping, our preferred method. It’s mostly full of young travelers, but is surprisingly nice and immaculately kept. There is a communal area with a pool in the center surrounded by a kitchen, tables, a bar, a pool hall and the beach in front. Cheap activities abound including snorkeling trips, horseback riding, jungle treks, massages, and kayaking. Tomorrow we plan on taking advantage of the F$20 hour long massage ($13 US). Life is hard.

P.S. Relative to home, we’ve moved from 6 hours in the past to 16 hours in the future. In the process we completely lost Saturday June 28^th. That’s right it never happened. We got on the plane Friday night, passed out, woke up 6 hours later and it was 4 am Sunday morning.

P.P.S. We have a local prepaid cell phone here and we can receive text messages for free if you want to send us an update or make us laugh. From the US, dial 011 679 947 9953. We’re charged to text you back though, so it doesn’t necessarily mean we’re ignoring you if we don’t reply.

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